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Tips for Using Photoshop Creatively

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pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Tips for Using Photoshop Creatively

Post Sat Nov 22, 2003 7:32 am


Most of the galleries here contain photographs, and I have found so many excellent collections. I see that many folks try using Photoshop to enhance tone and lighting and generally make their photos look even better, but not retouched. This is certainly a good idea, and I do it as well.

But, did you know that Photoshop can do a lot more than that? If any of you haven't tried using it to turn photos into other art forms, have a look at my galleries here for examples: http://www.pbase.com/pstewart

If you like what you see and think you would like to learn to use Photoshop in this way, please visit my member participation site (free to join) at:
http://www.innographx.com/forum

We have tutorials there to help you get started, or to challenge you if you are already doing photo art. We also have manipulation challenges if you enjoy putting photos together in fun ways! And there is a retouching forum to help you make your portraits look their best.

I will be placing all sorts of general image editing tips here in this thread from time to time. I hope you find them helpful. If you have any questions, just ask.

Phyllis :)
Last edited by pstewart on Sun Nov 23, 2003 11:17 am, edited 9 times in total.

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Tips and Suggestions

Post Sun Nov 23, 2003 10:54 am


I forgot an important and fun way to use Photoshop with your photos. Make collages with them. I make my own Xmas cards each year. I use an inexpensive paper that is perfect for cards with a nice shiny finish. Just have to score it, then fold and trim.

If that's too much trouble, try this:

http://www.pbase.com/pstewart/postcards

TIP 1: There are many ways to remove pics from backgrounds, and doing that well is a major step. I prefer a small soft eraser to using Masks, which actually are more trouble and not suitable for every purpose.

TIP 2: Another important step is to be sure the tonal quality of all images match before combining.

These horse heads were all removed from their original backgrounds.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23482308

I have used these isolated head pics several times on other cards, as you can see if you browse through them.

TIP 3: When placing a cutout pic onto another pic the angle of the lighting must match.

Phyllis Stewart
http://www.innographx.com/forum

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Sharpening Tips

Post Tue Nov 25, 2003 8:14 am


Today's tip has to do with sharpening photos so they don't have that "sharpened" look. I have had to learn a variety of ways for retouching pics, but I found this week that I really had to use everything and anything to save some 25-year-old pics of countryside and kids. These had to be scanned from shiny rough linen finish paper, and though the descreening feature of the scanner got rid of the texture it left the pics soft and even blurrier than a normal scan. So, since I've been doing so much sharpening lately, it's on my mind.

Sharpening with Photoshop Unsharp Mask Filter:

Tip-1: Try to sharpen only once if possible, after you have done your tone and color work is usually best. If the pic is more blurry you can sharpen twice, doing the first one softer with top slider under 100 and a pixel radius up to 1.0. The final sharpening should be very fine, top slider 400-500 and middle 0.2 - 0.4 on a pic that's 700-800 pixels wide, and you may want to fade it a bit.

Tip-2: To avoid haloes, fade the USM to either dark or light, whichever looks better.

Sharpening with High Pass Filter:

Tip-3: Choose high pass from "other" in filter menu, set to 0.3 to 0.5 or until the edges of the image are visible in the gray screen, then fade to Overlay mode. This will not leave haloes.

Sharpening with KPT6 Equalizer:

Tip-4: This, and plug-ins like it, can individually select the pixel areas to be sharpened, and the finest is very fine! I don't know what I would do without this great plug-in! Set the right hand slider about 3/4 the way up, and the next slider about 3/4 the way down, and you get a softness around the sharpness...a great look that's both soft and sharp and fairly natural looking to boot, good for many pics.

Sharpening with burn and dodge:

Tip-5: This, like all sharpening methods, increases contrast. It is most useful for eyes and other areas of a pic that need to stand out crisply. Go over eyes with burn set to shadows at opacity less than 12% and follow with dodge set to highlights. Fade at luminosity mode to avoid getting overly saturated colors.

Channel sharpening:

Tip-6: Instead of sharpening the whole image, sharpen just the black channel in CYMK, or just the lightness channel in LAB mode, or the cleanest channel you can find in RGB. Fade to luminosity mode when sharpening the red, green, or blue channels to keep color from oozing around the edges.

Sharpen Tool:

Tip-7: Don't be afraid to use this. At low opacity it's very useful as a finisher to touch up and highlight certain small areas. Used in lighten mode it can add sparkle too.

General:

Tip-8: Allow for distance and depth of field differences. Don't sharpen a blurred background too much or it will look unnatural. Best to make a dupe of the image, sharpen the top one, then use a soft low opacity (less than 20%) eraser to remove some of the sharpening from clouds and soft parts, like cheeks in pics of people. Go over areas as much as needed to get a gradual effect. Sometimes it's also helpful to go over clouds or skin with the blur tool using a soft brush and low opacity. You can go over harsh over-sharpened edges too without ruining the sharp look...just use a small blur brush with a very low opacity.

Tip-9: Fading. You get a different effect by sharpening with lower numbers in amount (such as 100) than you do by sharpening finer with high amount (such as 500) and then fading back the opacity with edit>fade. The first method gives less noise and a softer look overall, while the second combines the super-sharp version with the unsharpened version, as if you had placed a sharpened layer above it and reduced opacity. The second method gives the illusion of finer sharpness overall while the pixel noise is reduced by fading. See the next topic for similar but more pronounced effects that actually use two layers.

I hope you find something useful here. For some examples of how those old blurry pics turned out, look at the sharpened photos in these two galleries:

http://www.pbase.com/pstewart/kids
http://www.pbase.com/pstewart/scenics

Phyllis
http://www.innographx.com/forum
Last edited by pstewart on Fri Nov 28, 2003 7:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.

pstewart
 
Posts: 810


Post Tue Nov 25, 2003 11:21 pm


I edited the sharpening tips post just now...I had forgotten one.

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Camouflaging grain and enhancing light

Post Fri Nov 28, 2003 5:42 am


Today’s tips are about subtly enhancing and often even saving, difficult photos. This technique can solve three common problems with photos:

1. A pic is too grainy, such as one underexposed in low light.
2. A pic comes out with less than perfect focus, so we sharpen it, only to find it looks sharpened because of all the speckly sharpened pixels we’ve added.
3. A pic contains way too much fine detail that is distracting, a common problem with nature shots, especially in the woods where every little leaf and trillium bud competes for the eye’s attention.

Here is a simple and effective technique that can lessen those flaws significantly, while actually enhancing the photo in the process.

Let’s start with problem #3. Here is a sample of a repaired nature scene that had way too much detail in the leaves and growth all over the place, cluttering the view and distracting from the falls. It was easily fixed in Photoshop by making a dupe, using fine unsharp mask (“fine” has settings about like this: amount=400-500, radius=0.3-0.7, threshold=zero), then using a mild amount of gaussian blur on the top layer, and fading back the opacity of the blurred layer until the main forms looked clear but the smaller distractions were sufficiently softened.

For a subject like woods or falls the slightly misty look this gives fits the setting, so it can be a nice enhancement too:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23641600

Now that in that pic the final version had noticeable blurring/haziness, but we don’t always want it that noticeable. Here are two examples where the sharpening on the bottom layer was VERY fine (amount=500, radius=0.3, threshold=zero)and the blurred top layer had just slight opacity, just enough to cancel out the bright pixel speckles that a high amount of USM with a tiny radius can create:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23440007
http://www.pbase.com/image/23579679

As you can see, the blur is barely noticeable, and the picture ends up look soft and sharp and the same time. These photos actually had unacceptably soft focus due to scanning with descreening on a linen finish print. But now they look almost as crisp as the originals.

Sometimes you want a bit more haze and a “soft focus” look, or want the lights in a picture to glow. This is easy to do by simply increasing the opacity of the top layer in the above steps. Notice the effect:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23612808
http://www.pbase.com/image/23628630

In the first, the glow suggests the sunlight is reflecting off the hayseed dust, which is always present in a hayloft but seldom picked up well by cameras. In the second, there is just enough glow to enhance the candlelight. This blurring also served the purpose of hiding all the grain that appeared on the pumpkin surface and floor due to unusual lighting conditions and underexposure of surfaces.

Last, there is a small change you can make in the process to produce an even more pronounced glow, a neon effect if used on bright colored lights--try it on your Xmas tree pics! All you need to do is set the top layer to Lighten mode instead of Normal mode. Here are examples:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23663460
http://www.pbase.com/image/21182091

The first photo had lens flare from shooting into the sun, so instead of trying to fight it, I enhanced the effect to make his hair glow even more. The second is actually from my photo art gallery and as you can see the horse had been smudged first before the effect was applied. This is the only other photo I could find for an example, but it would do pretty much the same thing on a normal white horse photo as well.

NOTE: If you don't want to make two layers, you can just apply gaussian blur after sharpening then use edit>fade to reduce opacity of the blur, or change to lighten mode, or both. I prefer making separate layers, however, since I like having the option of combining modes/effects in a stack.

I hope you find something useful here. To learn more ways to repair and enhance photos, visit my site at http://www.innographx.com/forum

Phyllis :)

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Portraits With Vignettes

Post Sun Nov 30, 2003 9:16 am


Here are three examples of the difference a soft vignette can make on a photo. You can turn a snapshot into a portrait by softening and partially hiding an undesirable background. See these "before and after" pics:

Large view: http://www.pbase.com/image/23743573
Original and comparison: http://www.pbase.com/image/23743511

Large view: http://www.pbase.com/image/23705846
Original and comparison: http://www.pbase.com/image/23706681

Large view: http://www.pbase.com/image/23738991
Original and comparison: http://www.pbase.com/image/23738769

It’s one of the easiest portrait enhancements to do in Photoshop.

1. Using the elliptical marquee selection tool, select the head/shoulder area.
2. Invert the selection. You now have a frame selected with an oval hole in the middle.
3. Make this selection into a new layer.
4. Click the little box to “lock pixels”, then fill with white.
5. Click the box again to “unlock pixels”, then run gaussian blur until you like the effect.

I hope you find this useful. Please visit my Photographs gallery to see a variety of subtly (as in you shouldn't be able to tell!) enhanced photos.

Phyllis
http://www.pbase.com/pstewart/photographs
http://www.innographx.com/forum

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Basic Outline

Post Wed Dec 03, 2003 6:27 pm


Of all the techniques useful in photo art, this one is a standard everyone should know. It can be used as a starting point for sketches, as a striking accent when its layer is applied in overlay and different modes, and adjustments to the gaussian blur step can create a variety of different and very useful layers for blending.

It's been around for a long time in many forms, and no one knows who first posted it or where. At Innographx we simply call it the Basic Outline:

1. Dupe layer and desaturate to b/w. If it has a lot of contrast at this point, or black areas, brighten it and lower contrast a bit with brighten-contrast adjustment.
2. Dupe b/w layer and invert.
3. Set blend mode on top layer to color dodge.
4. Gaussian blur top layer just slightly till outline shows up. You should see no solid black areas. If you do, go back to step one and reduce contrast.
5. Merge two b/w layers.
6. Dupe and set to multiply. Repeat for desired darkness then merge all b/w layers into one.
7. Use levels or brightness contrast to increase contrast if desired.
8. Choose a blend mode and blend over original. Luminosity works well to start a color sketch. Overlay gives a striking effect. Experiment for different effects.

For variations and extensions, see this page of the tutorial thread where it appears on my site:
http://www.innographx.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19

I hope you find this useful.

Phyllis
http://www.pbase.com/pstewart
http://www.innographx.com/forum

minoltaman
 
Posts: 2089


Post Wed Dec 03, 2003 6:37 pm


deleted question :!: :)
Last edited by minoltaman on Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:52 am, edited 2 times in total.

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Eyes

Post Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:29 am


The image below from my Retouching Galleryshows an example of what I'm going to talk about today...eyes.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23887754

Before we get to the eyes on a photograph, let’s talk about eyes on the photographer. The human eye/brain combination adjusts to light differences and “sees” partly with the brain, brightening and clarifying while interpreting the world. The camera does not. So, eyes often end up in shadows, which is not how our visual cortex is used to “seeing” them. This is easy to fix in Photoshop, so that eyes on photos of people will look clear, just as we see them in person, even in the shadows.

Note: Work on eyes before final sharpening.

1. To brighten eyes, first make a dupe of the layer and set it to luminosity mode. Use the dodge tool set to highlights with a soft brush or airbrush at low opacity, and pass over the eyes on the top lum layer. Using the lum layer does two things: It keeps the dodge tool from saturating the color as it brightens, and it makes it possible to erase away or lower opacity later if you have too much of an effect.

2. You may have to take the eyes to a brighter level than you want at first. Don’t worry. Next you use the burn tool set to shadows at very low opacity, or midtones in some cases. You should end up with darker rings around the irises, which is usually what happens and is natural looking.

3. The pupil may be red from the brightening, or from a flash. Fix it by first using the sponge tool set to desaturate at high opacity. Pass this over some of the excess red in the whites of the eyes while you’re at it.

4. The irises probably do not have enough color if they were in shadow, so now you should color them with a small soft paintbrush set to overlay mode at 30-40% opacity using the appropriate color. Using overlay mode instead of color mode will make the eyes sparkle!

5. The pupil may be too light from all the brightening. Fix this by making a hard black paintbrush the same size as the pupil, setting to 80-90% opacity, then dotting it.

6. Last you need to replace the catchlights, which may have been lost in the process. Use a pale to medium gray soft paintbrush at about 80% opacity the same size as you want the catchlight and dot them in place.

7. Sharpen the eyes a tiny bit more than the rest of the image, if needed, at the very end of your retouching, right before saving the final version. Don’t overdo however...you don’t want them to look pasted on.

Optional: A quick way to brighten eyes with less hand tool work is effective in some cases where the eyes aren’t too dark. Just lasso them, make a new layer from this seletion set to luminosity mode, then use bri/con adjustment to increase brightness and contrast. Use a soft eraser at 100% to remove the edges of the lassoed selection and blend in the brightened eyes smoothly, then merge down.

Optional: Add lashes...don’t overdo. A few posts down is a tute on adding eyelashes.

Phyllis :)
Last edited by pstewart on Sat Dec 13, 2003 1:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Specks and Dots and Spots

Post Tue Dec 09, 2003 5:05 am


This particular tip may not live up to the thread name, since it's not really "creative." It's just common sense, and it's a chore, but an important chore that can improve the quality of your photos considerably.

Those of you who are scanning prints or negatives or slides will certainly need to do this. Even digital camera users will have some degree of this chore if they want their pics to look their best.

There are two kinds of annoying "specks" that I notice on a lot of images, even the great photos here on pbase :) 1- dust and lint specks from scanning, and 2-"in the picture" specks of light, lint, fuzz, dirt, flaws.

Both kinds are easily removed, and really should be, since a lot of folks are like me and those little dots of light and dark pixels pop right out and hit us in the eye and we say "ouch!" Even if specks don't ruin a picture, they do have the effect of making it seem untidy and thus unprofessional.

They are easy to get rid of...takes about five minutes usually. Just use the Photoshop clone tool with a soft brush setting, make it not too small and not too large for the size of the specks you are getting rid of...either extreme will make the patch noticeable. You could use the patch tool too, but I find it can blur areas of a pic that shouldn't be blurred...best to save that one for faces. Clean up all the specks you see before sharpening, then go over the image again after sharpening, since more will become noticeable.

The kind of specks you might find IN the picture itself, not just scanner dust, are: lint on clothing and furniture, blemishes of course, dirt marks on walls, scratches on table/chair/wood surfaces, tiny spots of light that look like they don't belong in a scenic, etc. Don't get carried away and overdo it, but give it a once over anyway. You'll really notice the difference when you compare the cleaned pic to the original.

I even remove bits of unnecessary distracting items from the edges and corners of pics that cropping alone can't remove, like the corner of another chair for example in a pic of someone sitting by a table, or a candy wrapper on the floor in a cute kid shot, etc. These are just little things, but being aware of them and dealing can work wonders on the finished picture

Phyllis :)

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Eyelashes

Post Sat Dec 13, 2003 1:13 am


Ya, not creative, I know, but this retouching info is in here because I've had so many requests asking how to do this or that. So here is a continuation of "Eyes." This time it's eyelashes. See this new image in my retouching gallery for the example:

http://www.pbase.com/image/24096721

It's actually very easy to add eyelashes...

1. First use a tiny brush in overlay mode to go over the edge of the eyelid with low op brownish black, unless that area is already dark (it usually is). If the edge is already the right color, then you may just use a tiny burn tool brush set to low opacity shadows if you need to darken it more. The idea is to have a line of dark enough color from which to create the lashes in step 3.

2. Set the smudge tool as follows:

Darken mode (so that no light colors are smudged, only the darks)
Soft brush
1 to 4 pixel size (depends on image size and resolution)
Opacity approx. 50-75%

3. Brush outward from eyelid edge in quick curved strokes. You will need to undo often and try again to get a natural look. Do not space evenly, and vary direction slightly. For a guide as to how eyelashes grow and should look, refer to mascara ads or other close-up eye pics.

4. Work at 100%, or more for a small file, and zoom out often to get the true effect.

You don't need to set your stylus pressure in any special way...you can even do this easily with a mouse, since the lash strokes will fade to nothing on their own.

Hope you found this tip useful. See these pages for more ideas on retouching:

http://www.pbase.com/pstewart/retouching
http://www.innographx.com/forum

Phyllis :)

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Removing Subject from Background

Post Sun Dec 14, 2003 10:56 pm


I've had two people ask me about this in the past week, so I guess I'll put the answer here. There are many "recommended" ways to remove a subject from its background, most of which involve masks. Usually these methods result in obvious edges, and they're more trouble than they're worth, especially considering the questionable results. Here is what I do. It's simple and easy and foolproof, and you really can't tell it's been done. See the example here:
http://www.pbase.com/image/23907242

1. Circle the subject loosely with a lasso, staying pretty close to edges but don't take any special effort to get it just right...leave space all around.

2. Make a new layer with this lassoed piece.

3. Color the background with a color that is similar to what you'll be using for the changed background. This makes it easier because you don't have to be as careful. If you want a cutout image that you can place on ANY background later, you will have to be more careful in the following steps, and in this step, make the background white or black, then switch it occasionally as you work, checking the result against both backgrounds for missed spots.

4. Select the eraser tool with a soft brush that's pretty small...you don't want too much "fuzzing" of edges, but neither do you want them razor sharp. Go around the edges with the eraser at 100% opacity. You will need to reduce the size here and there for tiny areas.

5. There will be some image left outside the erased line, so get rid of it with a larger eraser or a lasso following the cleared path. Check the result against both a dark and light background if you may choose to use a variety of backgrounds, and erase any missed spots.

6. Save the layer with its transparent background as a PSD file to use later.

This is really much easier even than it sounds. Just need a steady hand and about five minutes.

To remove the edges around fur or hair you can't just use a larger eraser brush...that just gives you a fake looking blurred edge. For that you will need something like Knockout, or simply a natural looking hair/fur creation technique. I'll explain a quick and easy way to do that in my next post here.

Note: See the horse head on the far right in the sample above. The hair was not repaired when the cutout was made, but later. You may choose when to do it. In this case I brushed it out a little bit after placing the layer above its new background, as shown here: http://www.pbase.com/image/23482201
The printed size here is really too small even to notice, but it would be important on a larger print:


Hope you find this useful. Let me know if you try any of these ideas and how they work for you. Thanks.

Phyllis :)
http://www.pbase.com/pstewart
http://www.innographx.com/forum

pstewart
 
Posts: 810

Quick and Easy Autofixes for Tone and Color

Post Fri Dec 19, 2003 8:24 am


This came up yesterday, so I'll talk about it now before I forget.

1) If you find your photos are flat in tone with disappointing color, as when taken on a cloudy day for example, here's a quick fix: Just hit PS autolevels, and fade back a bit.

If you are more used to using levels or curves, of course you will do it manually, but for those who are new to using PS for correcting tones, the auto feature can be very helpful.

2) If you like the color shades, but not the flat tones, do the same with "auto contrast, " again fading back a little.

3) Last, if you like the contrast and tone, but think the colors look a bit off, before doing any manual color adjustments, see what "auto color" will do. Sometimes it helps a lot. Sometimes not. But one click is worth a try, and might at least give you a good start.

The fading back in the first two is useful if you plan to print the image because the full "auto" on levels and contrast puts pure black and pure white into the image, and prints should have about 3%-5% less black or white on the two extremes.

And keep in mind that before attempting to correct color on any image, whether it's a scenic to be brightened or a portrait to be retouched, always correct the tones first. Get the b/w/gray values right with levels or curves before you proceed to work on color, because you can never get good color otherwise.

Hope someone found this helpful. :)

minoltaman
 
Posts: 2089


Post Sat Dec 20, 2003 2:38 pm


Duplicate post...see questions below.
Last edited by minoltaman on Sat Dec 20, 2003 5:26 pm, edited 3 times in total.

minoltaman
 
Posts: 2089


Post Sat Dec 20, 2003 2:44 pm


I will be placing all sorts of general image editing tips here in this thread from time to time. I hope you find them helpful. If you have any questions, just ask.


You have any noise reduction tips? I am most interested in eliminating shadow noise inherrent in small sensor digicams. Without long tedious masking steps if possible and without smashing the details.

Also....what is you best method to combat toothcombing on 8 bit images?

Thanks

PS..I have tried most of the actions and plug-ins available. So a link to NI or something like that won't do me much good.

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