I've a query on macro lenses, I love macro photography and already have the Canon 100mm macro lens, which I love and is fantastic for a greater working space; but I want to get even closer.
Can anyone advise whether its worth me getting the Canon 60mm macro lens, I would dearly love the MP65mm but its slightly out of my range, but will get this if it is the best!
I realise I will lose my working distance but I don't mind to much,I just want to get closer; into an insects face for example?
Any ideas?
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Technical Questions
Macro photography
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
- Posts: 91
Macro photography
Sat Mar 10, 2007 8:57 pm
Last edited by carole_s on Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Posts: 903
Re: Macro photography
Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:12 pm
I don't think it's worth getting the 60mm if you've already got 100mm and if you are happy with it as they both give you 1:1 magnification. I think the cheapest way to get even closer (without getting MPE 65) is the extension tubes.
- Posts: 903
Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:58 pm
Yeah, if you really want to get close, that would be a great option. 
BTW, it looks like we are neighbours.
BTW, it looks like we are neighbours.
- Posts: 3780
Sat Mar 10, 2007 11:01 pm
The MP 65 is my next lens, too. The 60mm's angle of view is more than the 100mm, so you'd be back stepping in that aspect and not gaining additional magnification, as already stated. Unless you wanted it for other reasons, such as including more background, there's little worth except having a lens with smaller size & weight.
The least expensive way to get more magnification would be adding tubes, or teleconverters to the 100mm. I use both with good success, but they won't get you to 5X without excessive light loss.
Good luck, and happy shooting.
The least expensive way to get more magnification would be adding tubes, or teleconverters to the 100mm. I use both with good success, but they won't get you to 5X without excessive light loss.
Good luck, and happy shooting.
- Posts: 236
Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:58 pm
One of the other options you can use is to get a "reversing ring" which will allow you to attach another lens to the front of your macro lens. This is would usually be a prime such as the 50mm standard lens. This will allow you to get REALLY close.
The reversing ring just uses the filter threads on each lens.
One important thing to bear in mind is that it doesn't matter what the reversed lens fitting is as the camera doesn't care!!
I used to use this in my 35mm days!
The reversing ring just uses the filter threads on each lens.
One important thing to bear in mind is that it doesn't matter what the reversed lens fitting is as the camera doesn't care!!
I used to use this in my 35mm days!
Pete, UK
http://www.pbase.com/wildhareuk
http://www.pbase.com/wildhareuk
- Posts: 3780
Sun Apr 15, 2007 8:36 pm
Cecil wrote
While diopters can be effective, they add a lot of flair unless you purchase the most expensive ones. In this case, you're really better off in using extension tubes since they don't add as much magnification to a macro lens as you'd hope. But for point & shoot cameras, they're a great addition.
wildhareuk wrote:
Actually, I believe what you're thinking about is a "Reverse Coupler". A "Reversing Ring" uses only one lens in reverse. And if you want to maintain auto functions, an automatic reverse ring is expensive. And since currently, theres not one made for manual use it's not a good alternative.
A "Reverse Coupler" is equally as useful on Point & Shoot cameras as it is on SLR's or DSLR's. And as you say, simple attaches the lenses by the filter threads to each other. But don't forget, you end up with a circular image, which needs to be cropped. This cuts down your file size, and reduces the size of prints you can make:
Original Here: http://www.pbase.com/dang/image/47846424/original
And since the original poster wants greater magnification than 1:1 and already owns a macro lens, one of the last options would be using a bellows system. But here again, we're talking something which is about as expensive (or more expensive, depending on which model you get) than the Canon Mp-E 65mm. You can use a manual set with it, but I can assure you it's difficult to get the best results shooting live insects. So the 65mm is the best alternative for "ease of use" while maintaining the highest quality photos with maximum magnification. There's really not anything else that does the job as well.
For example shots, descriptions and more detailed information on various techniques, I invite you to look through my galleries here: http://www.dangphoto.net
Hope you can find some helpful information.
How about diopters?
While diopters can be effective, they add a lot of flair unless you purchase the most expensive ones. In this case, you're really better off in using extension tubes since they don't add as much magnification to a macro lens as you'd hope. But for point & shoot cameras, they're a great addition.
wildhareuk wrote:
One of the other options you can use is to get a "reversing ring" which will allow you to attach another lens to the front of your macro lens.
Actually, I believe what you're thinking about is a "Reverse Coupler". A "Reversing Ring" uses only one lens in reverse. And if you want to maintain auto functions, an automatic reverse ring is expensive. And since currently, theres not one made for manual use it's not a good alternative.
A "Reverse Coupler" is equally as useful on Point & Shoot cameras as it is on SLR's or DSLR's. And as you say, simple attaches the lenses by the filter threads to each other. But don't forget, you end up with a circular image, which needs to be cropped. This cuts down your file size, and reduces the size of prints you can make:
Original Here: http://www.pbase.com/dang/image/47846424/original
And since the original poster wants greater magnification than 1:1 and already owns a macro lens, one of the last options would be using a bellows system. But here again, we're talking something which is about as expensive (or more expensive, depending on which model you get) than the Canon Mp-E 65mm. You can use a manual set with it, but I can assure you it's difficult to get the best results shooting live insects. So the 65mm is the best alternative for "ease of use" while maintaining the highest quality photos with maximum magnification. There's really not anything else that does the job as well.
For example shots, descriptions and more detailed information on various techniques, I invite you to look through my galleries here: http://www.dangphoto.net
Hope you can find some helpful information.
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