My Workflow Method asked by "DANG"

[benjikan]

"Dang" sent me a message asking about my workflow methods. Here is one of the methods I use more often than not. It is one of several, but none the less. A few of you might find it helpful:

http://pentaxlife.com/benjamin-kanarek- ... d#more-213
http://pentaxlife.com/forum/topic/61?replies=2

The workflow I employ that is intended for press or print. When shooting in RAW which is always the case, I open an image via Bridge in to PS3 which automatically opens in Adobe Camera Raw. As stated (Now this is an alternative method to the one given at "Pentax Life") I will sharpen the image at 25 to 35 percent in ACR, Luminance Smoothing "0" and Color Noise reduction at "50". I generally click OK at this stage, (unless I am way off in my exposure, which if I am, I have to seriously re-consider my chosen profession)

When open in PS3 in 16 bits, I create a Duplicate Layer. Now here is where you can go both ways. (sounds a bit suspect) Depending on what I wish to accomplish in terms of saturation, I will either De-Saturate the image or leave it as a color image. The two are radically different in there outcome. Once I have created the Duplicate Layer, I will go in to the Layers Menu "TAB" and click on Normal which will open a large choice of different options. I will "Click" on "Soft Light". When doing so and dependent on the contrast of the image, you will notice a radical increase in contrast and saturation if you left the original image in color. Generally with my stuff and I say generally as it totally depends on the lighting I have employed, I will set the "Opacity" and "Fill" sliders from 50 to 85 percent each. Once I am satisfied with the result, I will flatten the image, as it is not yet ready for re-touch, this is a pre-retouch manipulation that I do on every image in preparation for the Post Production retouch. Once in PS, I will in many cases use the Shadow Highlight tool at my Default setting being,

Shadows:
Amount 2%
Tonal Width 50%
Radius 30%

Highlights:
Amount 2%
Tonal Width 50%
Radius 30%

Color Correction +20 Mid-tone 0

It may change dependent on the conditions.

Now, if the "Duplicate Layer" I made used the "De-saturation" process, after I have flattened the layer, I might augment the overall Saturation by 10 to 20 %. If I wish to keep the image with "That" desaturated look I may do nothing. It depends on the effect I am looking for.

If I did not use the "De-saturation" process and left the "Layer" in color, I may "De-saturate' the overall image by 10 to 20%.

If I do not sharpen in PS, I will do the following for a more "RADICAL" look. After I have imported in to PS from ACR, I will Unsharp Mask (Accentuate) from 120 to 330 percent at 0.3 pixels and I will Unsharp Mask again at 10 to 15% at 40 to 60 pixels to really "POP" the contrast. I will go to "Shadow Highlight" and do the required manipulations to compensate for a loss of shadow detail.

I am now ready for the "Retouch Artist"

When retouch is done and up-sized if necessary, I will sharpen again at 100 to 180 percent at 0.3 pixels.

That is my systematic "Workflow" method.

Ben

[thayer16]

Hey Ben....Thanks for posting this. I am new to photoshop and just purchased a student version of CS3 and its interesting to hear how photographers use all these tools in the real world - outside of the classroom. Would you be able to post a Before and After image which shows the effects of your work? I looked through your galleries and think the Afters are great, but it'd be helpful to see how they looked Before, too. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[madlights]

Thanks Ben...I picked up a little on using the "soft light" layer after sharpening, on one of your posts on a Pentax forum...and it works wonders for the looks of some photos. Although was oriented to a 16bit work flow it even works well with some of my older jpgs at 8 bits with sharpening and the layer adjusted accordingly for 8bit and the camera parameters. It is easier from RAW I think, since I can't ever remember what I set my older camera at in sharpening and contrast with jpgs...and have to leave it all adjustable...but it does work well...and with RAW just gotta love the look it gives. Sometimes too using a gradient with soft light for certain specific uses has helped in a few photos too..This gives me some more ideas to experiment with...so thanks again.

[dang]

Thanks Ben,
And thanks for sending me the Pmail letting me know. I'm glad you posted it here, or I would have (with your permission).

I've been speaking to a couple of people about your technique, and I've seen some nice results. I'm not using CS at the moment, but am trying to adapt it to PS E at the moment. I can tell a difference already by using soft layers, which is something I hadn't tried before.

Thanks again for the "tut", I think it's going to be very helpful to a lot of folks.
tom

[benjikan]

Thanks Ben...I picked up a little on using the "soft light" layer after sharpening, on one of your posts on a Pentax forum...and it works wonders for the looks of some photos. Although was oriented to a 16bit work flow it even works well with some of my older jpgs at 8 bits with sharpening and the layer adjusted accordingly for 8bit and the camera parameters. It is easier from RAW I think, since I can't ever remember what I set my older camera at in sharpening and contrast with jpgs...and have to leave it all adjustable...but it does work well...and with RAW just gotta love the look it gives. Sometimes too using a gradient with soft light for certain specific uses has helped in a few photos too..This gives me some more ideas to experiment with...so thanks again.

All images are captured in RAW. It goes in to PS and saved as a Photoshop File in 16 bit depth. It is only flattened when I go to press and USM'd again dependent on the support being used for the image.

[andrys]

Say, Ben, Dang/Tom tipped us off to this thread.

Thanks for posting such a useful set of tips. Definitely bookmarking this.

- A

[benjikan]

Hey Ben....Thanks for posting this. I am new to photoshop and just purchased a student version of CS3 and its interesting to hear how photographers use all these tools in the real world - outside of the classroom. Would you be able to post a Before and After image which shows the effects of your work? I looked through your galleries and think the Afters are great, but it'd be helpful to see how they looked Before, too. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

You can perform this task as easily as my posting. I really don't like showing before and afters as it is the after that I consider my final intended work to be viewed. You can do it quite easily however. Just follow the instructions as stated...

[ishida]

Thanks for sharing. I tried it myself and it works very well. I've learned some new techniques that I can use in combination with what I currently do for my workflow. Thanks again!