Indeed no two filters are created equal. An inexpensive filter makes
some compromise to achieve its price point. I went with cheapy Cokin stuff to use as I figured out which would have what effect and will buy better quality as I decide which ones I really need (more realistically which ones get trashed first). Some food for thought. If you use round threaded ND Grads, you have to make some compromises when composing images since you are unable to move the transition line up or down (side to side) without shifting the lens itself. For this reason, square ND's are used instead so that one can frame the image then slide the filter to the point where it provides the desired effect. A tip I picked up was to compose, position the filter, then use your DOF preview to see whether or not the filter is having the desired effect. There are some examples using ND grads in my galleries. I use them on many of my landscapes. I usually note the grade in the tech notes. I do use rounds when I want to slow my shutter speeds to blur water or other movement, and ISO 100 and f16 don't limit the EV enough (f16 being the point where diffraction starts to rob sharpness). I like the Cokin P mount because it's inexpensive and will mount any one else's square filters.
examples:
ND was placed just above the far ridge line. Image would have been improved if I had been packing a strobe to highlight the sign
One was used here, but I have no recollection of what the grade was (most likely a soft transition ND 8 ). I suspect that it was placed just below the line where the ocean meets the rocks.
Filter placed here angled to follow the line of the snow in the foreground
Images are linked should one wish to see the originals.